110 Cartridge

This reusable 110 cartridge is the perfect solution for shooting 16mm film in some of the most loved 110 cameras.

Types and Options

ISO

These 110 cartridges are available for both ISO 100 and 400 speeds, thanks to interchangeable lids that signal to the camera which film sensitivity you are using. The respective ISO number is clearly printed on each lid so you can’t go wrong. PLEASE NOTE: Not all cameras feature an ISO setting switch. If your camera lacks this switch, it will automatically default to ISO 100. You can find more details and notes at the bottom of the page.

Frame Window

If you are using film cut from 35mm stock, the windowless cartridge is highly recommended.

If you cut your film from 120 stock, you can use the version with the window because the film will have its own backing paper.

However, it is not quite that simple: while the advantage of this option is that you can intuitively see the paper advancing through the window to gauge film movement, you won’t actually see your frame numbers. The backing paper of 120 film does not have any reference markings for the 110 or 16mm formats. You could technically spool your film onto an original 110 backing paper with the correct numbering. This workaround applies to film cut from 35mm stock as well.

Film Stopper

Just like the Fakmatic, the RCK110 comes with its own film stopper. Attach it to the end of your film strip to make winding it inside the camera chamber much easier. When you reach the end of the roll, the film stopper will hit the film slot and stop right there. Once you feel the advance lever lock up, it means you have run out of film. This handy feature prevents you from accidentally shooting blank frames on an empty roll.

Storage Box

You also get a dedicated storage box to safely keep your cartridges protected from light. If you need just the containing box for you other 110 cassetes, head to this page:

Loading and Setup

Loading a 16mm film strip into the cartridge is quite easy if you follow a few simple steps. Naturally, this entire process must be done in complete darkness, so make sure to prepare everything you need beforehand and work patiently.

• Prepare two pieces of adhesive tape. You will need them to secure the film to the spool on one side and to the film stopper on the other. You can pre-attach the tape to both the spool and the stopper so you don’t lose them in the dark.

• Remember that film naturally tends to curl inward, keeping the emulsion side on the inside. Keep this in mind when rolling the film: follow its natural curvature to ensure the sensitive side faces the correct direction.

• Attach the film stopper to one end of the film strip and start rolling the entire length. Every now and then, pull the end of the film while holding the film stopper tightly between your fingers to reduce the diameter of the roll.

• Once the roll is tight enough, drop it into the film chamber, leaving a few centimeters of film sticking out.

• Attach the exposed end of the film to the spool and tighten it well. Ideally, use a piece of tape long enough to wrap around and stick to both the front and back of the film.

• Place the spool onto its pin inside the cartridge. Use your fingers to help slide the film smoothly along the film gate.

• Close the cartridge with the lid, applying firm pressure. There are two tabs that lock the lid into place—you will hear a distinct click when it is perfectly seated.

• You can now turn the lights back on and insert the cartridge into your camera, or store it safely inside its box.

Sprocketless Film Shenanigans

If you load these reusable cartridges with unperforated film (such as strips cut from 120 film using the Maxi Cutter, or from 135 film using the Mini Cutter), there are a few crucial mechanical points you need to know.

Many 110 cameras rely on an internal pin that catches the sprocket hole of original 110 film: as you advance the film, this pin cocks the camera’s shutter. Without this trigger, the camera simply won’t fire.

However, some cameras don’t care about this pin at all—they will shoot regardless of that movement, making them perfectly compatible with unperforated film. Other models will sort of work, but require a couple of tricks. Let’s break it down in detail:

Cameras that work flawlessly:

Minox 110S, Canon 110ED, Kodak Ektralite 10… These cameras are the most forgiving for home-reloaders. Their internal mechanisms do not care whether your film has holes or not. The shutter will cock and trip perfectly on every single frame, making them ideal companions for bulk-cut, unperforated film stock without requiring any extra effort on your part.

Cameras that work, but with a catch:

Pentax Auto 110 The camera will still fire its shutter without a hitch. However, these models rely on the factory perforation to engage an internal stop-mechanism that precisely measures the frame spacing. Without that hole, the camera doesn’t know exactly when to stop winding. With the standard Pentax Auto 110, you will need to stroke the advance lever twice per frame; with the Auto 110 Super, just once.

Cameras that do NOT work:

Rollei A110, Rollei E110, Agfa Agfamatic Pocket. These cameras advance the film automatically using a push-pull (clamshell) motion. Their internal mechanical linkage absolutely requires a registration perforation to engage properly.

The Cassette’s notch trick

Premium 110 cameras have an internal metal pin that must drop into the film’s sprocket hole to unlock the shutter. If you use unperforated 16mm film, the pin hits solid plastic, locking up the camera.

To fix this, take a cutter and cut away the small pre-engraved colored section on the inside of the cassette’s lid (check picture). This creates a permanent “fake hole” that tricks the camera into thinking a perforation is always there, keeping the shutter unlocked so you can wind and shoot smoothly.

This cartridge notch trick is essential for these high-end models:

• Canon 110ED / 110ED 20

• Fujica Pocket 350 Zoom

• Minolta 110 Zoom

Cameras that will work without perforations and without issues:

Most simple, cheap 110 cameras don’t care about sprocket holes at all. These “cheap” models use basic friction to advance the film, relying entirely on you looking through the little red window on the back to count the frames.

If you are using unperforated 16mm film, these cameras will work perfectly right out of the box with zero modifications.

Here are the cheap, fun, and lo-fi cameras that handle unperforated film flawlessly:

• Holga Micro 110 (and Holga Mini variants): The ultimate toy camera. It has a single shutter speed, a fixed plastic lens, and a completely manual winding wheel that doesn’t lock.

• Lomography Diana Baby 110 / Fisheye Baby 110: Modern lo-fi favorites. Built specifically for experimentation, their simple plastic advance gears ignore perforations completely.

• Kodak Ektralite (and Tele-Ektralite series): The quintessential 1980s pocket camera with the built-in flash. It uses a basic friction-based advance system that completely ignores sprocket holes.

• Ansco 110 Travel Camera: A classic, bare-bones point-and-shoot with a sliding lens cover that just keeps winding as long as you spin the wheel.

• Kodak Pocket Instamatic (Basic 10 & 20 Series): The original budget pocket cameras. Unlike their high-end siblings, these entry-level models don’t have the internal pin sensors, making them incredibly easy to use with smooth reloads.

• Vivitar Pocket Series (like the Vivitar 450 or Point ‘n Shoot models): Simple, plastic-lens cameras that advance film blindly via a thumbwheel without any mechanical restrictions.

Film ISO ≠ Cartridge ISO?

What happens if you load film with an ISO that differs from the cartridge rating? Depending on the combination, you could end up with either a two-stop overexposure or a two-stop underexposure. Here are the scenarios explained clearly:

1. Cameras WITHOUT an ISO Sensor

If the camera doesn’t have a sensor pin, it completely ignores the cartridge shape. It automatically defaults to ISO 80/100 using fixed settings (usually 1/125s and f/8 or f/11) optimized for standard daylight.

2. Cameras WITH an ISO Sensor

If the camera has a sensor pin, it reads the cartridge notch to adjust exposure. If you load the wrong film into the cartridge, these shifts in exposure will occur:

• 400 ISO Film in a 100 ISO Cartridge = 2-Stop Overexposure. The camera thinks it’s handling slow film and lets in too much light. Modern negative film handles this beautifully, resulting in rich shadows and colors.

• 100 ISO Film in a 400 ISO Cartridge = 2-Stop Underexposure. The camera thinks it has high-speed film and restricts the light. This often results in grainy, muddy images.

FILM LENGTH & Frame Count

There are different film lengths to consider if you cut your own stock from 135 or 120 rolls. These alternative source films have different lengths than a classic 24-exposure 110 roll, and you need to keep this in mind when trying to fit longer strips into the 110 cartridge. Let’s look at the specs:

• Original 110 film (24 exposures): 75cm long (29.5”) — measuring roughly 90cm (35.5”) when including the backing paper.

• 135 film (36 exposures): About 164cm long (64.5”).

• 120 film: 76cm to 82cm long (30” – 32.3”).

If your cut film comes from 120 format, the entire length of the strip will comfortably fit inside the cartridge, especially if you ditch the backing paper. Keep in mind that original 110 film and its backing paper are thinner than 120 stock; therefore, a roll cut from a 120 source will inevitably be thicker, which might make film advancement feel a bit tighter inside the cartridge.

If your cut film comes from a 36-exposure 135 roll, I highly recommend cutting the strip in half. Otherwise, trying to fit the full length will make the wound roll far too thick, causing internal friction inside the cartridge and leading to jammed or problematic film advancement.

FILM CUTTING: Converting 120 and 135 to 16mm

• If you want to produce your own film from 120 stock, you can use the Maxi Cutter. It cuts 120 film into various formats and offers multiple configurations to yield perfect 16mm strips.

• If you prefer to harvest 16mm film from 135 cartridges, then the Mini Cutter is exactly what you need, featuring a couple of different layout solutions for 16mm production.

Looking only for the storage box?

If you already have your own cassettes and just need the case to store them, please visit our dedicated page to purchase the storage box on its own.